domingo, 8 de dezembro de 2013

Lhama Rock, Wellington Dam and Boomer Hill

by Pati
This week was full of climbing! It was really good!


Map!

Lhama Rock
Shane took a day off on Wednesday and we went to Lhama Rock! We have never been to this place before, and it was awesome! I loved it! The rock is not big, and not high, but the routes are really fun! Some chimney and slab moves together! The rock has a good grip though!

Routes and Grades
We started with the easy chimney routes, and it was fun! In fact, the space between the rocks is large, so it is too wide to climb with chimney moves (with your back), you need to climb with scissors moves! But I couldn't do it in one of the routes, so this is the move that I made:

No Feasible Return
The day was fun, we climbed 10 routes! We did the easy routes (some of them, twice!), we tried a 17 in top rope (run out), a slab very interesting, and Shane leaded a 20 with a slippery slab... Shane wanted to try some hard routes, but the sun was shining like a summer day!

High Dive

The End Justifies


I am sure that we are going back there with Jorge and Raph! Fun climb with good pictures! The only problem is: ticks! I killed 3 on the ground, I found 3 on my pants, and 3 on my legs...

Wellington Dam
Plans for the weekend?! Yes! Shane, Raph and a friend (Mike) went to Honeymoon Pool Camping on Friday night to camp. Jorge and I met them at the Wellington Dam Quarry on Saturday morning to climb! The quarry is not big, but has some interesting routes, and some hard routes!
I don't have many pictures of this day... After 3 pictures my camera's battery was running low and turned off...


I loved this route! It is a 18 and is hard... To me! The beginning was hard, with 2 long moves to reach good holds, and I managed to climb it after few tries, but I did it! I think I am getting stronger! Uh-hul! Biking is helping me a lot! The rest of the route is hard as well, you need balance and technique! I loved this route! It is similar to the limestone routes in Lapinha (Brazil), with big but not too good holds, you need balance, it is a little bit overhanging and you need to know how to move your feet! But it's a granite!
It was the first time that Mike was climbing, and he did it really good! He was a little bit nervous, but did it well, with no climbing shoes! He would be surprised how the climbing shoes help a lot! I hope he keeps climbing!
After the climbing we went to the camping site, it was full of families with kids  running all around... But Shane and Raph found a good spot in the end of the site! It is called Honeymoon Pool because there is a river behind the camping, where people swim... But not me! It was cold, and I couldn't go in the pool! No shower today! (the camping has toilets, but no shower!)
The night was nice with the boys playing banjo, the dinner was good, I made pasta, Raph made burritos and brought home-made cookies for dessert... Pete and Anthony, Mike's friends, met us in the camping and in the end everybody was drinking wine and singing!
Shane playing banjo...

Mike, Raph and Jorge...

Bolognese Pasta with Parmesan and Brie!

Raph cooking mince meat for burritos!
Boomer Hill
After a good night of sleep with my warm sleeping bag, we had breakfast and packed everything to go to Boomer Hill on the way back to Perth! It is a private property, so we called the owner to get the permission to climb!
When we arrived there, we met an old guy (ps: older than Jorge!), and he was climbing alone! He set up the anchors, and was climbing with an auto-belay-device (I don't know which one he was using). We started to talk with him, his name is Ron, and he is Ron Master's father! We met Ron Master at Peak Head (Albany) in January! Small world!
Jorge leaded in trad Boomer Crag, on of the best cracks around Perth! A 3 stars route! It was beautiful to watch Jorge leading in trad this 18 grade route! It was awesome! I am so proud of him! Shane tried the crack and so did I... The beginning is hard, with bad foot spots, and the crack is perfect! Good holds, good placements for trad, beautiful route! And a little bit of slab in the end...
Raph!
 I took some pictures with my iPhone, so they are not that good:









Ron climbing alone on the right...
I took a panoramic picture that shows how "big" is the rock!

In the end everybody was happy and hungry! Ok, let's go eat something and head home!
We talked about Tasmania, all of us are excited about this trip! 12 days to go! And we started to plan to go to Brazil next year, and so do Shane and Raph! It would be fantastic to travel and climb with them in Brazil! And with Rafa e Flavia!
Another good weekend with good friends and lots of climbing! Sooo happyyy! :-)

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